Qom: The Spiritual Heart of Iran


If you look at a map of Iran, about 140 kilometers south of the bustling capital, Tehran, you will find a city whose cultural and religious significance far outweighs its relatively moderate size. This city is Qom (pronounced "Ghom"), the second holiest city in the Shia Muslim world after Mashhad and Iran's center of religious scholarship and pilgrimage. To deeply understand modern Iran, you must see Qom not just as a ordinary city, but as a unique phenomenon where politics, religion, history, and culture blend to shape the country's complex identity.


1. A Deep History: From Myth to Recorded Time


Qom's history dates back to ancient times. Legends say it was founded by Tahmuras, a mythical pre-Islamic Persian king. However, what defines Qom as we know it today is rooted in the early days of Islam.


· The Arrival of Islam and a Shia Identity: After the Arab Muslim conquest of Iran, Qom gradually became a refuge for Shia Muslims and descendants of Imam Ali (the first Imam of Shia Islam), who were fleeing persecution from the Umayyad and Abbasid caliphates. This migration laid the foundation for the city's strong Shia identity.

· The Arrival of Hazrat Masumeh (SA): The pivotal moment in Qom's history came in 816 AD. Fatimah al-Masumeh, the daughter of Imam Musa al-Kadhim (the 7th Imam) and sister of Imam Reza (the 8th Imam), was traveling to visit her brother in Iran. She fell ill on the way in the city of Saveh and was brought to Qom, where she passed away just 17 days after her arrival. Her shrine quickly became a pilgrimage site for Shia Muslims, putting Qom permanently on the spiritual map of the Islamic world.

· Ups and Downs: Qom witnessed periods of prosperity and decline. During the Safavid dynasty (16th-17th centuries), which declared Shia Islam the official state religion, Qom received special attention. The shrine was rebuilt and decorated. This patronage continued during the Qajar era. However, until the 20th century, Qom was primarily a pilgrimage city with a religious seminary smaller than those in cities like Isfahan or Najaf (in Iraq).


2. Qom Today: An Overview


Qom is a fascinating mix of old and new. Upon entering the city, the golden dome and minarets of the shrine of Hazrat Masumeh immediately catch your eye. The shrine is the undeniable center of gravity, with main streets radiating out toward it.


· Population and Social Fabric: Qom has a population of about 1.5 million. Its residents are a diverse mix:

  · Seminarians and Clergy: Thousands of religious students (talabeh) and prominent scholars (Maraji', or sources of emulation) from across Iran and the Muslim world live in Qom. Their presence gives the city a unique, international atmosphere. You will see young men in black turbans (signifying they are Sayyids, descendants of the Prophet) or white turbans, and women fully veiled in black chadors.

  · Pilgrims: Qom hosts millions of pilgrims each year. During specific religious periods, the city is filled with visitors.

  · Ordinary Citizens: Like any city, Qom is also home to merchants, office workers, laborers, and artists going about their daily lives.

· Architecture: The architecture is a blend of historic religious buildings (the shrine, old mosques) and modern high-rises. New seminaries are often built in a classic Islamic style, while the city's traditional bazaar has an old-world feel.


3. The Shrine of Hazrat Masumeh: The Beating Heart


No visitor can understand Qom without experiencing the shrine. This massive complex is much more than a mosque; it's a city within a city.


· The Courtyards (Sahn): The shrine has several large, beautiful courtyards, each named after Shia Imams. They are decorated with intricate tilework, tall iwans (porticos), and central fountains, providing space for rest, prayer, and social gathering.

· The Golden Dome and Minarets: The brilliant golden dome over the burial chamber is the unmistakable symbol of Qom, visible from the outskirts of the city. Tall minarets flank it, from which the call to prayer is recited five times a day.

· The Silver Zarih: Inside the main building, the tomb of Hazrat Masumeh is protected by an ornate, silver-plated lattice structure called a zarih. Pilgrims pray and pay their respects here. The interior is stunningly decorated with mirror mosaics, symbolizing light and spirituality.

· The Jameh Mosque of Qom: This historic mosque, adjacent to the shrine, is one of the oldest parts of the complex.

· The Feiziyah Seminary: Located next to the shrine, Feiziyah is one of the most important and famous Shia seminaries in the world. Its architecture, with tall porticos and student rooms surrounding a courtyard, is a classic example of traditional religious school design. Feiziyah is not just an educational center but also a powerful political symbol, as Imam Khomeini, the founder of the Islamic Republic, delivered his historic speeches against the Pahlavi monarchy from here.


4. Qom as the Shia Vatican: Center of Learning and Authority


This title accurately describes Qom's role. After the exile of senior Shia scholars from Najaf under Saddam Hussein's regime, Qom definitively became the center of the Shia world.


· The Hawzeh Ilmiyah of Qom (The Seminary): The seminary isn't one centralized university but a vast network of hundreds of independent religious schools where thousands of students study. The educational system is traditional and can take decades. Subjects include Arabic grammar, logic, jurisprudence (Fiqh), principles of jurisprudence, philosophy, Quranic commentary, and theology. After years of study, a student can reach the level of Ijtihad – the ability to derive Islamic laws from primary sources.

· Marja' al-Taqlid (Sources of Emulation): The highest religious authorities in Shia Islam are the Maraji' (plural of Marja'). These individuals, who have reached the level of Ijtihad, are followed by millions of Shia worldwide in matters of religious law. Many of these grand ayatollahs reside in Qom, and their offices (called "Beyt") receive people and students for guidance. Their decisions and positions can directly influence Iran's policies and Shia communities globally.

· An International Hub: The Qom seminary is not just for Iranians. Students come from Iraq, Lebanon, Bahrain, Pakistan, Afghanistan, India, Azerbaijan, and even African and European countries. After graduation, many return home to serve as religious leaders, making Qom an "exporter" of Shia thought and ideology.


5. Daily Life and Culture in Qom


Despite its strong religious atmosphere, Qom is a living city with its own unique culture and traditions.


· The Qom Bazaar: The traditional bazaar, near the shrine, is a bustling place. Here you can find everything from religious souvenirs like prayer beads, perfumes, and books to food, clothing, and handicrafts. One section is dedicated to selling prayer rugs and turbah (clay tablets used for prostration), renowned for their quality in Iran.

· Local Food: Qom has its own delicious specialties. Its most famous sweet is Sohan-e Qom. This rich, sweet confection made from wheat germ, flour, sugar, butter, and saffron is the city's primary souvenir; no pilgrim leaves without buying several boxes.

· Handicrafts: Besides religious items, Qom is also known for producing beautiful carpets and rugs.

· Art and Music: Artistic expression in Qom revolves mainly around religion. Arts like illumination (decorating Qurans), calligraphy, and religious recitation (e.g., Maddahi and Rowzeh Khani for the martyrs of Karbala) are highly valued.


6. Qom and Politics: Unquestionable Influence


Since the 1979 Islamic Revolution, Qom has become a key center of political power in Iran, deeply connected to the religious identity of the state

· Imam Khomeini and the Revolution: Imam Khomeini, the revolution's ideological leader, taught in Qom before his exile. His speeches at Feiziyah were catalysts for the revolution. After its success, while Tehran remained the political capital, Qom was established as the spiritual and religious capital.

· The Influence of the Clergy: The senior clergy and religious institutions in Qom wield significant influence over national decision-making. Iran's Supreme Leader, Ayatollah Khamenei, is a high-ranking scholar who studied for years in Qom. Governments and politicians often need the legitimacy and support of Qom's authorities.

· A Support Base or a Center of Opposition?: At times, Qom can also be a center of criticism toward the central government. Because the clergy have financial and social independence, they may challenge or criticize state policies, showing that Qom is not a monolithic bloc but an arena for different theological and political views.


7. Other Attractions in Qom


While the shrine is the main focus, Qom has other historical and natural attractions.


· Jamkaran Mosque: On the outskirts of Qom, this mosque is believed by many Shia to have been commissioned by the 12th Imam (Imam Mahdi). It is a major pilgrimage site, especially on Tuesday nights, when thousands gather for prayer.

· Salt Lake (Darya-ye Namak): To the east of the city lies one of the largest seasonal salt lakes in the world. In the dry season, it transforms into a vast, white salt plain, creating surreal and beautiful landscapes.

· Historic Caravanserais: Several old caravan serais from the Safavid era around Qom testify to its location on the ancient Silk Road.

· The Astan Quds Razavi Museum: Housed within the shrine complex, this museum holds a priceless collection of ancient Qurans, historical carpets, gifts from kings, and art objects from various centuries.


8. Experience for a Visitor: Tips for Traveling to Qom


For an international traveler, a visit to Qom can be a profound and memorable experience.


· Respecting Customs: As a highly religious city, observing Islamic dress code is essential and respectful. For women, this means a chador, or a long coat (manteau) and headscarf. Men should also dress modestly (long trousers and shirts with sleeves).

· Entering the Shrine: Entry to the shrine for non-Muslims is generally permitted, but access to some inner areas (like the immediate vicinity of the zarih) may be restricted. Always behave respectfully and quietly, and ask for permission before taking photographs, especially of people.

· Public Atmosphere: During religious mourning periods (like Muharram) or festivals (like Eid al-Fitr), the city's atmosphere changes completely. You might witness mourning processions with passion plays (Ta'zieh) or public celebrations.

· Talking with People: People in Qom are generally hospitable. If you approach with respect, many seminarians, especially those who speak English, may be eager to discuss their beliefs, offering a unique opportunity to better understand Shia culture.


Conclusion: Qom, A Key to Understanding Iran


Qom is more than a city; it is a symbol, an institution, and a power center. It is a window into the spiritual and intellectual heart of Iran. Qom shows how religion can shape not only individual lives but also social structures, higher education, the economy, and even the high politics of a nation. A trip to Qom is a journey into the depths of Iran's identity—a journey that displays the country's tumultuous history, profound faith, and complex future. To understand contemporary Iran, you cannot simply pass by this magnificent city..